Indians For Guns

Would a low flame from a small gas blow torch burn away all the grease and oil from the surface of the parts to be blued?

GNV wrote:Would a low flame from a small gas blow torch burn away all the grease and oil from the surface of the parts to be blued?

i am afraid it may bake the carbon on the surface preventing the bluing solution to come in the contact with the metal surface.

GNV wrote:Would a low flame from a small gas blow torch burn away all the grease and oil from the surface of the parts to be blued?

You can't use a blow torch or flame. It will burn out the grease and oil but wont evaporate it. It will leave a residue/ carbon on the metal which will then have to be scrubbed off using emery paper. Also you can't use WD 40 as it has lubricating properties and will leave a coating on the metal but that wont be difficult to clean up.
Therefore, the best and simplest method is to remove rust with 'rust removing compound', WD 40 or emery paper. Then use fine grit paper to remove any defects/ pitting left by the rust. Finally rubbing compound to give the metal a polished look (but not absolutely necessary). Then de grease the metal using spirit (available at the local chemist shops) or commercial de greasers.

Atul

I always use surgical spirit for degreasing even though it leaves traces of moisture. I simply wipe it off. What I want to know is after degreasing and final cleaning and polishing and just before bluing would heating the parts being blued result in better bluing and finish. I saw it in some youtube video. I am using Ballistol Rebluing Liquid.

GNV wrote:I always use surgical spirit for degreasing even though it leaves traces of moisture. I simply wipe it off. What I want to know is after degreasing and final cleaning and polishing and just before bluing would heating the parts being blued result in better bluing and finish. I saw it in some youtube video. I am using Ballistol Rebluing Liquid.

GNV,

Never 'polish' the metal before bluing.
I also saw somewhere that heating before bluing gives a better result. But I have not tried it.

Atul

GNV wrote:I always use surgical spirit for degreasing even though it leaves traces of moisture. I simply wipe it off. What I want to know is after degreasing and final cleaning and polishing and just before bluing would heating the parts being blued result in better bluing and finish. I saw it in some youtube video. I am using Ballistol Rebluing Liquid.

I use Birchwood Casey perma blue liquid, about 2- 3 coats. Finish off with a final cost of Birchwood Casey perma blue Paste. This gives an amazing finish. This method was first suggested to me by our fellow member and a good friend of 20 years, David

GNV, I usually use a hair drier (my wife's as I sport a clean shave)
Yes, the heating seems to deepen the blue. Using a hair drier is less tedious than hot water (IMHO).

BD

Added in 10 minutes 54 seconds:
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GNV,

Never 'polish' the metal before bluing.
I also saw somewhere that heating before bluing gives a better result. But I have not tried it.

Atul[/quote]

Hi Atul,
Why would you suggest that polishing shouldn't be done before bluing? I too Polish the barrel, clean and blue.
Any effects on the bluing firmness?

BD


BD

BD,

The part to be blued should ideally be bare metal with no contamination. Polish gives the metal a good look but leaves a coating of wax or silicon on the metal creating a barrier between the metal and bluing compound thus reducing its life.

Atul

aadhaulya wrote:BD,

The part to be blued should ideally be bare metal with no contamination. Polish gives the metal a good look but leaves a coating of wax or silicon on the metal creating a barrier between the metal and bluing compound thus reducing its life.

Atul

You are absolutely right. I guess I didn't word appropriately. By Polish, I meant using very fine grit paper and steel wool, using water as the medium, then cleaning of with industrial grade Acetone. I'm sure GNV also meant this process.

BD

Thanks, gentlemen!

GNV, will look up your post.

Latest update: I was right (finally!!). There was too much bluing compound. After rubbing off the rust, I applied the Gsmith gun oil. It's been 7 days now, and there's no sign of the red stuff. Thank God!

I regularly use the Ballistol blue on my carbon steel knives. Never faced this issue. Probably I was a bit too generous with the blue this time around.

essdee1972 wrote:Thanks, gentlemen!
GNV, will look up your post.
Latest update: I was right (finally!!). There was too much bluing compound. After rubbing off the rust, I applied the Gsmith gun oil. It's been 7 days now, and there's no sign of the red stuff. Thaneed back k God!
I regularly use the Ballistol blue on my carbon steel knives. Never faced this issue. Probably I was a bit too generous with the blue this time around.

That was good experiment you conducted and were successful. We need feed back like this to go ahead with our gunsmiths needs. Keep it up.

Atul