Leather & Synthetic Washers for Airguns

[snIPer]

Hi,
I recently got a few leather Cherokee / cheroki washers from Pune.

In the packaging that it came in are the usual -
a leather bucket washer -
a plastic base -
a screw with a plastic base (fits into bucket).

apart from the above it also came with a small round leather washer kind of thing - does anyone know what this is for?

Also i read somewhere that it is better to soak a new washer in vegetable oil overnight before installation.

any views on the oils that it can be soaked in prior to installation??

Thanks
/S/

[Pran]

I have a feeling it may diesel on vegetable oil.Moly oil may be an alternative.You'll have to get Mack The Knife's opinion on this one.

Pran

[snIPer]

Vegetable oil only as a pre install soak and not for lubing it.
I also did hear that silicon oil can be used for that but not sure of where it is available or if it is true.

[Mack The Knife]

Read this...

http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115108

[snIPer]

Thanks Rusty

Just found some more info -

Try this method to improve leather seals

Shot consistencies, due to the overly hard seal not totally conforming to the slight irregularities in the cylinder.
1. Scruff up the outer part of the seal with 180 grit sand paper until all burnish color is removed.
2. Spray seal heavily with brake cleaner to remove all oil and sand paper grit and wipe with cloth and let dry.
3. Soak seal overnight in leather conditioner.
4. Now grasp seals outer edge between thumb and fore finger and work the leather back and forth while adding drops of leather conditioner until it becomes pliable, NOTE: Make sure to do all the way around the seal, May take 15 minutes for this procedure.
5. Now repeat step 2 heavily and let completely dry.
6. Now very lightly coat your seal with your factory recommended airgun seal lube or your own personal favorite airgun lube.

[snIPer]

Just found this article that id saved up earlier - might be useful for those trying to make a synthetic washer (including me).

Make a replacement synthetic seal for a leather seal gun.
Another project
By Charlie


A basic guide.

Read this in it’s entirety before proceeding.

To do this, you will need a length of Teflon Rod. It is 1” in diameter and PTFE. Some hardware stores carry it I’ve been told and in some areas it can be found locally at plastic fabrication shops. If not, it can be ordered from McMaster Carr. Here is the info and URL.

http://www.ece.uiuc.edu/ecestores/matplas.html

or you can type in the number 8546K16 on Google search

Part number 8546K16

MCMASTER - CARR 900526000 8546K16 1 IN WHITE PTFE ROD $1.76



First, disassemble the gun and remove the piston. This requires in most cases, using a spring compressor and care must be taken as it can be dangerous and cause bodily injury. (see tune up guides) also (spring compressors)

http://www.kcugonline.com/kac/projects/charlie/

Before proceeding, inspect the compression chamber to be sure that the walls of the chamber wall are smooth. If they are not smooth, they should be honed until they are. Remember, leather seals are a lot more forgiving when it comes to irregularities than synthetic seals, which is one of the reasons they are used in the less expensive guns.

In the event that the walls are damaged to the point that they cannot be reasonably corrected, you may want to just put it back together using the leather seal. Minor scratches may not be a problem though, and you may or may not want to proceed. That’s your call, and it may be fun just to give it a whirl. Whether or not you decide to continue, you should still take the time to clean up and smooth the walls anyhow as it may help the performance some.

With the seal still attached to the piston, measure the depth and diameter of the seal. Also, measure the inside diameter of the bore of the compression chamber. These references will be used in the making of the seal.

Remove the screw located in the center of the leather seal and remove the seal. Save all of these parts in the event you want to reinstall the leather seal. Take notice how the seal and expansion washer (if used) is assembled.

Now take a file and smooth out or file down any rough edges at the front of the piston and taper or round off a real slight even bevel around the edge of the face of the piston. Be sure there are no sharp edges. Now smooth it down with some sandpaper and clean.



And now for the seal;

Cut a piece off of the end of the Teflon rod just a little thicker, about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch thicker than the leather seal. It’s not critical, however, better thicker than thinner. When cutting it off, keep the cut as even, as smooth, and square as possible. Take your time, there is no rush.

Now we’re going to drill a hole in the center of the seal that will need to be counter sunk. The hole needs to be the same size as the screw that held in the leather seal. It is important that this hole be drilled as nearly centered as possible in the seal. Be sure to countersink it deep enough as the Teflon is kind of soft and spongy. The object here is to sink it deep enough into the Teflon to keep the screw from slamming into the bottom of the chamber when fired driving the seal retaining screw up into the piston, either damaging the bottom of the chamber, breaking the screw or causing the threads to strip.

For the next step it would be nice to have a drill press but a drill mounted securely in a vise or other holding device will work.

Because the seal material is a larger diameter than the inside diameter of the cylinder, we have to make it smaller by removing some of the material. This can be done one of two ways.

If the piston has a shaft in it:

Mount the new seal on the piston using the screw from the leather seal. If that screw is to short, take it to the hardware store and get a replacement screw that’s a little longer. Most hardware stores carry metric as well as SAE screws. If possible get a hardened screw.

Place the end of the shaft into the drill press or secure drill and use a file to turn it down, being careful not to remove too much material. While removing the material, hold the file at a slight angle, or canted so that the seal has a slight taper to it, tapering from the rear of the seal to wider at the front, making the front of the seal slightly larger than the rear. This will reduce the friction as there will not be contact with the whole width of the seal. Check it as you go for fit. You want a good, firm, fit, but still able to move in and out without excessive drag. You should be able to move it by hand in and out with exerting source. Better too tight than to loose, as it will break in given time and seating.

In the case that there is no center shaft, take a screw, place it through a washer that is a little smaller than the seal, insert the screw through the seal and place another washer and nut on the back and tighten the nut. (In other word’s, sandwich the seal between two washers an a suitable screw.) Place it in the drill chuck and do as above. You may have to double nut the screw to keep it from loosening as the drill turns.

When you are ready for assembly, clean the threaded hole in the piston and the screw with lacquer thinner or fingernail polish remover and a q-tip. Use the BLUE LocTite on the screw per the instructions.

Just another fun project

Charlie

[email protected]

-- Thu Mar 19, 2009 13:41 --

Somewhere in this forum is a post on where to procure PFTE in Bangalore to make a washer - if someone has any idea on where that is can u please post a link here.