Winchester Mod. 1910 S.L.

[Mack The Knife]

CC,

Have managed to remove the rear grub screw (it was completely loose) but the forward one isn't budging. The slot was buggered to start with and before it gets any worse, I thought I would ask what purpose does it serve?

Is it the same size as the rear grub screw?

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

[cottage cheese]

CC,

Have managed to remove the rear grub screw (it was completely loose) but the forward one isn't budging. The slot was buggered to start with and before it gets any worse, I thought I would ask what purpose does it serve?

Is it the same size as the rear grub screw?

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

Hi Mack The Knife,

The two screws seem to serve no mechanical purpose. They are simply a means to secure the stock to the tang.
Seeing the poor state they are in - (aint blaming no one) replacing them would be more meaningful-you could do well to drill out(Carefully) the stubborn screw. Preferably you could use a counter sink bit with a shallow cutting face to achieve this. Have a pair of good replacement screws turned or try to steal some.

[Mack The Knife]

The two screws seem to serve no mechanical purpose. They are simply a means to secure the stock to the tang.

Thanks. Will do the needful.

Mack The Knife

[Mack The Knife]

CC,

The blighter wouldn't budge. As a friend pointed out, being a grub screw the threads are the same dia as the head and since the slot had aready been chewed it was fouling with the female threads.

My friend suggested tapping the trigger guard with a mallet, so after covering the guard with a cloth we made a few exploratory taps to see if the stock would move. It did and we soon had the stock removed.

Looking at the recessed portion of the stock where the tang sits, there is only one shallow hole and that is where the rear grub screw sits when tightened.

The front grub screw does not go through the tang and I believe that it has some relation with the spring loaded button found just behind the knurled screw (the one that is tightened to fix the butt stock to the receiver.).

Mack The Knife

[cottage cheese]

CC,

The blighter wouldn't budge. As a friend pointed out, being a grub screw the threads are the same dia as the head and since the slot had aready been chewed it was fouling with the female threads.

My friend suggested tapping the trigger guard with a mallet, so after covering the guard with a cloth we made a few exploratory taps to see if the stock would move. It did and we soon had the stock removed.

Looking at the recessed portion of the stock where the tang sits, there is only one shallow hole and that is where the rear grub screw sits when tightened.

The front grub screw does not go through the tang and I believe that it has some relation with the spring loaded button found just behind the knurled screw (the one that is tightened to fix the butt stock to the receiver.).

Mack The Knife

Mack The Knife,

Extremely sorry,

I went off on a tangent. Made a mistake. One thing remains the same - The screws have no role in the mechanism of the gun. I would assume the grub screws are dummy screws and are simply there to protect the threads from the elements. What are the threads for?- Well they would most certainly be for add on tang mounted peep sights which seem to have been pretty common add ons on Winchesters and lots more guns of the period. If anyone knows better_ Pleeeease do butt in!
I've attached a pic to give an idea- This one is on a Model 1886.

Once again sorry for the slip up!

[cottage cheese]

Also the springy latch that locks the knurled take down screw seems to be the 1905 type- In its entirety its shaped like a flat hair clip(The inner side provides the springiness). the screw that you mention doesn't seem to have any relation to this part. This piece is removed only after the knurled screw is removed (By drifting out the screw's cross pin)- The piece is then slid out.

The 1907 has a more conventional spring loaded plunger to achieve the same result. It seems from your pic, they'd reverted to the 1905 pattern.

To simplify matters, I'll scan all the pages in my manuals and email them to you (Hopefully tomorrow)- This should help I assume.

[Mack The Knife]

Hi CC,

No need to apologise. You have already been of great help.

I would definitely appreciate copies of the manual and such but there is absolutely no hurry because I will be working on this and another stock before I get down to stripping the action.

Yes, you could be right about this being the base for a tang mounted sight.

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

[Mark]

Cottage Cheese is correct, those are filler screws to the holes for a tang mounted peep sight. Most likely they are threaded 6/48 screws.

About the only thing you can try is use a propely ground screwdriver bit that actually fits the slot and the screw, and put the gun in a drill press with the screwdriver pushing down while it is chucked in the chuck of the press. clamp a pair of locking pliers onto the screwdriver and use that to turn it while your other hand applies pressure to the downfeed on the chuck.

If that does not work, then take it to a machine shop and have them drill and re-tap, or you can fill the holes over the slot with a tapped in bit of solder, sanded smooth with the rest of the metal.

[Mack The Knife]

Thanks, Mark.

Would you know or even hazard a guess as to why this rifle is not extracting the spent case?

Mack The Knife

[Mack The Knife]

I would publicly like to thank CC for going out of his way to send me a copy of the manual.

Much obliged.

Mack The Knife

[cottage cheese]

I would publicly like to thank CC for going out of his way to send me a copy of the manual.

Much obliged.

Mack The Knife

Now I'm more than a bit embarassed!

Hope those pdfs helped.

[cottage cheese]

You know Mack The Knife, Marks suggestions are most appropriate.

I'd say you drill and re-tap, as the existing threads would probably have been damaged by now.

[jonahpach]

Hello Mack The Knife are we talking about this kind of rifle ?

http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displ ... um=8110318


Jonah

[Mark]

What does not happen when it fails to eject? Does the breech not come back fully, or does it not grab the rim of the case?

It appears to be gas operated. First thing I would do is disassemble and clean the gas operating system as that is usually where the problem is. There is going to be a piston and an operating rod. My limited experience with this type of system is either the piston is dirty and hanging up, or the operating rod is bent (from cartridges loaded with too much gas pressure).

The good news is these things are mostly designed to be opened up and cleaned so provided there are not many rusted/buggered screws it should be a simple job.

[cottage cheese]

Hello Mack The Knife are we talking about this kind of rifle ?

http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displ ... um=8110318


Jonah

That'd be the one.

Nice links and pics - Thanks